A couple of weeks ago when Deer and Doe released there new pattern the Centaurée Dress I immediately grabbed a copy for myself. I have been wanting to try out their patterns for a while but never got to it so this time I ordered the new dress pattern as well as the Airelle Blouse. The patterns arrived a few days later and I was in awe of their beauty when I opened mu package. The packaging is so pretty and I love the fact that the patterns are printed on proper paper and not thin, tear-easy tissue paper.
Impatient as I am I went straight to making a muslin (which is recommended because of the fit of the dress). Based on my waist measurement I decided on a size 36. I knew I had to do a SBA and because they usually result in narrower waists I figured it was the way to go. I took some time to figure out how to do the SBA. I know there is a sewalong starting this week where this will be tackled but I was to excited to start the dress to wait. After some thought I figured that the upper seams on the bodice where piece 1 meets piece 2 are actually a form of princess seams which makes bust adjustments rather easy. So what I did to get a 2cm reduction on each side was to reduce this seam by 1 cm on each piece. And to compensate I also had to make piece 3 narrower by the corresponding amount. Not so tricky really. I drew these changes onto my pattern pieces.
I used Tilly’s method when tracing the pattern onto the fabric and I must say it is excellent, specially when working with patterns on real paper. It also preserves all the sizes and there is no boring paper tracing to do.
I really love the contrast piping in the example garment and decided to go with the same idea, which I regretted on many stages of the construction of this dress. The piping makes the seams very bulky and the need to perfectly match the seams is highly increased.
I had been eying this fabric for a while because I really love this color. I had kind of decided to make a BHL Flora dress but the Centaurée came along and changed my plan. It is a soft cotton voile and the color is so intense I love it. It is perfect for a airy summer dress. I used almost 2 meters for the whole dress, including lining the bodice. The piping is kind of gold yellow colored satin, ready bought. The cord inside may be a bit to thick, a finer piping would have been better but I made it work. Like I said the construction of the bodice was time consuming and nerve wracking because of the piping. I had to step away from it many times and look at it from a distance to decide if I liked it or not. At one point when I had sewn the center seam but the lines did not line up exactly right I actually thought about leaving it that way ( I should have taken a picture, sorry). After sleeping on it I knew I would not be happy so I unpicked and made the seam 0.5 cm deeper which did the trick. I compensated by making the side seams 0.5 cm narrower which of course resulted in 1cm wider garment which is alright. The fit is rather good and the stiff piping makes the bust stand out a bit (like boning or a built-in-bra).
The bodice is fully lined and I sandwiched the waist seam between the two layers of bodice which means that the only exposed seams are the side seams, so the inside looks pretty neat. The binding and the straps could look a bit more professional though, I am not perfectly happy with the finishing, for this I blame the piping again since it got bulky in sensitive places. But I can look away.
I changed the placement of the straps a bit since I like it better this way.
When I put the dress on my three year old son told me that it is a pretty dress but it is a Spider Man dress, apparently the “star” reminds him of a spider web. He has a wonderful imagination. Maybe I should get a spider pin to put on the bodice.