As planed I have made a second Centaurée dress. This time I did the high-low hem and a proper SBA where I followed the instructions in the sew-along. I made a little error when adding the seam allowances back to the pattern pieces which resulted in me having to take the center front seam in a little but with this busy print you do not see it. I love the fabric, it is a very soft cotton voile, white with mint green print. I used just under 2 meters. The bodice is interlined with the same fabric and I used ready bought bias tape. I cut a size 36 and did 3 cm SBA. I cut a bit of the length of the skirt and even after sewing it together I reduced the center back even more since it had a weird shape. So I made the hem more even and the fishtail hem is not as dramatic. Recently I bought two presser foots and was able to use them both in the construction of this dress. The first is a rolled hem foot that makes 2mm hems, very narrow indeed. I like it a lot but have trouble sometimes when I sew over seams and the fabric becomes thicker, I may have to consider hemming before sewing the pieces together (in the flat). Other than that it is easy to use and I am considering also buying a 5mm rolled hem presser foot since I think I would use it a lot. The second presser foot is harder to use, it is an adjustable bias binder and I used it to , surprisingly, attach the bias tape (not the center front which I basted by hand before sewing). You need a technique to use it and I am getting better and better every time. It is designed to bind straight edges so when you have curves there is no room for mistakes because you can not stop sewing, pull the garment out of the sewing machine and then start again later.But I am getting better at using it and I have come to like it. And it definitely makes binding edges much faster.And I am sorry about the photos being almost all the same…
A couple of weeks ago when Deer and Doe released there new pattern the Centaurée Dress I immediately grabbed a copy for myself. I have been wanting to try out their patterns for a while but never got to it so this time I ordered the new dress pattern as well as the Airelle Blouse. The patterns arrived a few days later and I was in awe of their beauty when I opened mu package. The packaging is so pretty and I love the fact that the patterns are printed on proper paper and not thin, tear-easy tissue paper.
Impatient as I am I went straight to making a muslin (which is recommended because of the fit of the dress). Based on my waist measurement I decided on a size 36. I knew I had to do a SBA and because they usually result in narrower waists I figured it was the way to go. I took some time to figure out how to do the SBA. I know there is a sewalong starting this week where this will be tackled but I was to excited to start the dress to wait. After some thought I figured that the upper seams on the bodice where piece 1 meets piece 2 are actually a form of princess seams which makes bust adjustments rather easy. So what I did to get a 2cm reduction on each side was to reduce this seam by 1 cm on each piece. And to compensate I also had to make piece 3 narrower by the corresponding amount. Not so tricky really. I drew these changes onto my pattern pieces.
I used Tilly’s method when tracing the pattern onto the fabric and I must say it is excellent, specially when working with patterns on real paper. It also preserves all the sizes and there is no boring paper tracing to do.
I really love the contrast piping in the example garment and decided to go with the same idea, which I regretted on many stages of the construction of this dress. The piping makes the seams very bulky and the need to perfectly match the seams is highly increased.
I had been eying this fabric for a while because I really love this color. I had kind of decided to make a BHL Flora dress but the Centaurée came along and changed my plan. It is a soft cotton voile and the color is so intense I love it. It is perfect for a airy summer dress. I used almost 2 meters for the whole dress, including lining the bodice. The piping is kind of gold yellow colored satin, ready bought. The cord inside may be a bit to thick, a finer piping would have been better but I made it work. Like I said the construction of the bodice was time consuming and nerve wracking because of the piping. I had to step away from it many times and look at it from a distance to decide if I liked it or not. At one point when I had sewn the center seam but the lines did not line up exactly right I actually thought about leaving it that way ( I should have taken a picture, sorry). After sleeping on it I knew I would not be happy so I unpicked and made the seam 0.5 cm deeper which did the trick. I compensated by making the side seams 0.5 cm narrower which of course resulted in 1cm wider garment which is alright. The fit is rather good and the stiff piping makes the bust stand out a bit (like boning or a built-in-bra).
The bodice is fully lined and I sandwiched the waist seam between the two layers of bodice which means that the only exposed seams are the side seams, so the inside looks pretty neat. The binding and the straps could look a bit more professional though, I am not perfectly happy with the finishing, for this I blame the piping again since it got bulky in sensitive places. But I can look away.
I changed the placement of the straps a bit since I like it better this way.
When I put the dress on my three year old son told me that it is a pretty dress but it is a Spider Man dress, apparently the “star” reminds him of a spider web. He has a wonderful imagination. Maybe I should get a spider pin to put on the bodice.